Archive for the Uncategorized category
Identity & Web Development for Crescent Heights
by Roger on October 26th, 2008
Cline & Company has had the pleasure to recently complete the identity and web development for San Diego based restaurant Crescent Heights. Here is a excerpt from crescentheightssd.com to give a brief overview of the establishment…
Crescent Heights Kitchen & Lounge features innovative California Modern cuisine focusing on artisanal and seasonal ingredients in a chic downtown setting. Helmed by Chef David McIntyre who brings ten years of experience working in some of Los Angeles’ top kitchens including Wolfgang Puck’s Spago and Cut, along with Joachim Splichal’s Patina, Crescent Heights blends culinary creativity and attentive service in a sophisticated yet relaxed ambiance. Designed by the renowned firm Akar Studios, Crescent Heights occupies the ground level space of San Diego’s most stellar skyscraper at 655 West Broadway. Welcome to San Diego’s newest portal to fine dining.
PXL 2000 Message Board
by Roger on February 29th, 2008
Here is some information about the PXL 2000 along w/ some mods that you can do yourself.
PXL 2000
Sites Awarded by American Design Awards
by Roger on December 13th, 2007
I a proud to announce that the following sites which we have designed and developed have won awards from American Design Awards. Please take a moment to check them out.
CHARRIOL-USA : September 2007 Award
Lamonte Guillory : November 2007 Award
Roger Cline / Cline & Company : September 2007 Award
DIY: Microphone Built from an Old Telephone
by Roger on July 27th, 2007
Here’s schematic to create your own carbon microphone. I don’t really think this needs a step by step process, since it’s pretty simple. All you really need to have a functioning mike is (1) toggle switch, (1) 9 volt battery, (1) Mono Audio Jack, (1) Carbon Mic Element from an old telephone.
I built mine based on this “instructible”. I have mine in it’s own housing vs. still in the telephone. Either way will work the same. My only modification is to use a 9volt battery vs. 1AA. I tried it w/ the AA but the output was way too low.
Very Interesting Curved Plane Camera
by Roger on March 30th, 2007
Camera/Photos and Text by Larry Bullis
The cross section of the box is outlined in blue. The red line is the film. The green elipses represent the approximate (relative) scale of the pinhole as seen from that point on the film (at the center of the sheet). The variation in distance is given in stops on the left.
The visible aspect (roundness or out-of=round) of the hole is different from every position. The distance from the hole to the film, and consequently the amount of light reaching the film is also different at different points (the greater the distance the less light, conforming to the inverse square principle). The offset of the hole and the slant, with the consequent change of aspect of the visible elipse is used to cancel these errors to some extent. Ideally, the area of the hole as seen from any point on the film in its various aspects would be the same. That way, the light would be even across the film, but, of course, that isn’t possible. This intuitive compromise seems to work pretty well, but I haven’t got a really good mathematical model.
Using Photoshops Channel Mixer to Simulate B/W Film
by Roger on March 9th, 2007
I’ve recently came across these numbers that seem to add some nice tones to your b/w photography. Open your image in Photoshop then enter these numbers into the channel mixer. How close they actually simulate these films…? Well, you’ll have to judge for yourself.
Agfa 200X: 18,41,41
Agfapan 25: 25,39,36
Agfapan 100: 21,40,39
Agfapan 400: 20,41,39
Ilford Delta 100: 21,42,37
Ilford Delta 400: 22,42,36
Ilford Delta 400 Pro & 3200: 31,36,33
Ilford FP4: 28,41,31
Ilford HP5: 23,37,40
Ilford Pan F: 33,36,31
Ilford SFX: 36,31,33
Ilford XP2 Super: 21,42,37
Kodak Tmax 100: 24,37,39
Kodak Tmax 400: 27,36,37
Kodak Tri-X: 25,35,40
And these basic ones: Normal Contrast: 43,33,30 /High Contrast: 40,34,60
and at last a generic BW: 24,68,8.
Super Easy Anamorphic Coffee Can Camera
by Roger on March 9th, 2007
Ok. I’ll cut to the chase. All you really need is a coffee can w/ it’s lid, film/paper, flat black spray paint, and a pinhole (which ever method you prefer).
1. Paint the inside of your can flat black.
2. If your lid is opaque, you are fine, if not either paint it or tape it until it is opaque.
3. Measure your focal length to determine your pinhole size. Measure from your pinhole to the center of your film. (see diagram)
4. Place your pinhole on the inside of the lid.
5. Go shoot a photo w/ your new camera.
6. Post your results in the Anamorphs section of Flickr.
Good Luck. Feel free to email me w/ any questions.
Formula for Mounting Your Newly Made Pinhole
by Roger on January 26th, 2007
While browsing through the posts at the F295’s forum. I came across a post by Joe VanCleave, that I found very helpful.
His post was the answer to a question posed regarding the mounting of a Pinhole. The opening “in front” of the pinhole is sometimes overlooked when people start building cameras. That is, until you expose your film/paper and find that you have vignetting around the edges. Unless this hasn’t happened or you haven’t read about it the thought may never occur to you.
So taking the opeing size into consideration, a question comes up. “What should the size of an opening be? Of course you can go really large to be safe, but there must be a way to figure out exactly how much clearance is really needed.
Well thanks to Joe’s post, I have been enlightened. Here it is:
Terminology:
“Projection Distance” = distance from pinhole to center of film
“Film Width” = width of film at its widest point
“Film Height” = height of film at it tallest point
“Front Thickness” = thickness of front of camera (including shutter mechanism) in front of pinhole aperture
Therefore:
Front Opening Width = (Film Width/Projection Distance) x Front Thickness
And:
Front Opening Height = (Film Height/Projection Distance) x Front Thickness
“These results will give you the minimal size opening that will allow the image to not be vignetted at the edge of the film; you may want to add ~10% to the size to ensure that bits of fuzz or wood or cardboard fibers don’t obstruct the view.
This also assumes that the pinhole aperture is centered onto the middle of the film.
I usually make the front opening with the same shape and aspect ratio as the film, rather than just a round hole. This helps to ensure that the corners aren’t vignetted” said Joe.